This was written for and featured in the 2024-2025 Destination Paradise Magazine for Stars & Stripe. You can pick up your copy at US bases in Asia.

Our decision to fly to Bhutan via Nepal was not just a practical one, but also an adventure in itself. The anticipation of a short flight from Nepal to Bhutan, the nostalgia my husband carried from his mountain trekking days in Nepal, and our bodies acclimatizing to the elevation changes before our onward journey to Bhutan, all added excitement to our travel plans. From the moment we set foot in Kathmandu, we were met with smiles. The locals, with their immense friendliness, made us feel instantly at home. Even the immigration officer, despite the antics of my three-year-old son attempting to make a run for it, greeted us with a smile, a testament to the genuine warmth of the Nepalese people.

My daughter must have sensed these were her people. As we exited the airport, we walked past the waiting area where drivers and guides held signs for their guests to locate them; Emelia waved her way down the entire crowd, eliciting big smiles and waves in return. We have found that with each trip we embark on, our children become just a bit more independent and confident, and my husband and I could do nothing but smile at the little girl in the stroller, at just 20 months old, boldly greeting a large crowd of strangers on her terms.

During our brief time in Nepal, we visited the three Durbar Squares (squares in front of old royal palaces) and the Boudhanath Stupa because it was located right outside our hotel. The three squares, Kathmandu Durbar Square, Patan Durbar Square, Bhaktapur Durbar Square, and the Boudhanath Stupa, are all UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Kathmandu Durbar Square

Up first was Kathmandu Durbar Square, also known as Hanumandhoka Durbar Square. As we loaded the kids in their carriers, a local woman ran up to see them and say hello. She was so happy to see the kids that I had to photograph her, as her smile was infectious. This encounter turned out to be the first of two days of reactions similar to hers as we walked around each square.

*She ran up to see the kids as we got out of our car*

After walking around the streets, our first stop was the Kumari Bahal. The Kumari (translates as “virgin”) is considered the reincarnation of Taleju, a Hindu warrior goddess. Kumari candidates are chosen from working-class families of gold or silversmiths and placed in a dark room with disturbing scenes. Whichever young girl is not scared is selected as the next Kumari.

She is kept in the Ghar with her feet never touching the ground and only leaves the grounds for religious events or festivals. Each day, people crowd outside, hoping for a glimpse of the goddess. She occasionally appears from her balcony, and it’s considered good luck if you get a glimpse of her. Once the Kumari reaches puberty or bleeds in any way from an injury, she is transformed back to mortal status, and the process of finding a new Kumari begins again.

Below: Left, locals waiting outside to catch a glimpse of the Kumari. Right, locals singing in Kathmandu Durbar Square

As we continued our tour, it became clear that this square had seen great devastation. We saw firsthand the catastrophic damage the 2015 earthquake had caused. There was extensive damage to historical structures all over Nepal, and 9,000 people lost their lives. Due to limited funds and skilled workers qualified to complete restorations on the ancient temples, it will still be many years until repairs can be completed. All around, 2x4s were holding buildings, and rubble can still be found piled around buildings nine years after the earthquake. Despite what could be seen as unlivable conditions by many, locals were cheerfully gathered around temple steps or outside of homes, enjoying each other’s company, and we were continuously met with smiles everywhere we went.

We continued past Taleju Temple (only opened once a year during the Hindu festival of Dashain), Jagannath Temple, Shiva Pavarti Temple, and Bhandarkal, a botanical garden, though only a little was in bloom when we walked through. After a morning of exploring the Kathmandu Durbar Square, we grabbed a table at a rooftop restaurant where we could overlook the bustling square below and enjoy a refreshing beverage. It was only a short time before a solo American traveler sat down at a table nearby, and we started a conversation.

*Aerial views of Kathmandu Square from a restaurant*

We quickly discovered he had recently retired from the U.S. Marine Corps (my husband is also in the Marine Corps) and had spent much time at the same duty stations as my husband. Now, he was taking six months to travel worldwide before returning to the States. We chatted about travels and where we were all off to next and then went our separate ways. The world can seem so small when you have random encounters like these on a rooftop across the globe from home — certainly one of the great joys of travel.

Kathmandu Durbar Square entrance fee: 1,000 Rupees

Patan Durbar Square

After paying our 1,000 Rupees entrance fee, we started our tour of Patan Durbar Square. Because of the number of temples (some dating as far back as the 14th century) in the square, 55, many people consider this to be the best of the three squares. My favorite stop during our time in this square was the Patan Museum. Opened in 1997 and said to be the best museum in Asia, the Patan Museum is home to sacred Nepalese art, and admission is included in your entrance fee to the square. The halls are filled with historic relics and bronzed statues. The museum is the former palace of the late Malla Dynasty (they ruled Kathmandu Valley in Nepal from the 13th to the 18th century).

Some other popular locations within the square are the Krishna Mandir Temple, Bhimsen Temple, and Vishwanath Temple. Nearby is also the famous Golden Temple or Hiranya Varna Mahavihar. We spent the least amount of time in Patan Durbar Square with our children, reaching the point of needing some rest after four hours of touring. After the kids had a quick nap, we walked half a mile from our hotel to the Boudha Stupa and explored. The Boudhanath Stupa (“Boudha or Budhha Stupa”) is one of Nepal’s most significant and largest stupas. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a sacred place for Buddhists. The stupa is located on the northeastern outskirts of Kathmandu (where our hotel was located). Several shops and restaurants surround the area, and it’s a fantastic place to watch locals and tourists go about their evenings.

*Locals hanging out in Patan Durbar Square*

Patan Durbar Square entrance fee: 1,000 Rupees

Bhaktapur Durbar Square

The last square we visited was Bhaktapur Durbar Square, my favorite of all the squares. We spent several hours walking the streets, greeting locals and watching in fascination as the artisans and artists worked. Bhaktapur is considered the “Culture Capital, “ where you can find artisans of varying modalities. Watch as potters throw pots and see where the kilns are stored after drying. Walking down alleys, you will find painters and artists creating handmade works of art. We selected a small painting and, after a demonstration from the clerk, a handmade meditation bowl to bring home with us. Our son picked out his magnet, as it has become our traditions to pick one from every country we visit.

I could have spent hours in this square, but sadly, all great trips eventually end. Though you can squeeze visiting all three squares into one day, I recommend taking at least a day and a half to enjoy them. They are spread out, and Kathmandu traffic can sometimes become chaotic when driving from square to square. Though our time in Nepal was short, the people we encountered left a lasting impression. Their quickness with a smile, a friendly wave, and genuine kindness warmed our hearts and had us boarding the plane with a smile. We can’t wait to return once again when our children are old enough to trek this beautiful country on their own two feet.