Krampus and Perchten Runs: What Sets Them Apart
This past weekend, I drove to Weiden from Stuttgart to experience a Perchten parade/run during Rauhnächte. A term others might be more familiar with would be Krampuslauf, a theatrical Krampus parade. What sets Perchten parades or runs, apart from Krampus is the timing, intensity and the figures. Rauhnächte refers to the time between the years (December 25-January 6, Epiphany) in German, and is a time when little work is done and considered a period of reflection. Rauhnächte translates to "smokey nights, or wild and hairy nights," depending on the source. Tradition states that during this time, the souls of the deceased come back to create mischief on Earth.
The local villagers used demon-like costumes to help drive away these spirits and demons of winter and bring good fortune. They would take to the streets with these intricate handmade masks and costumes and burn incense in their homes. The term Perch comes from the mythological creature, “Perchta”. Though most Perch would be considered “ugly”, some are beautiful and you will often hear Frau Perchta referred to as “The Christmas Witch”.
Another key difference between Krampus and Perchten parades is that more fire is typically used in Perchten parades. Although the haunting figures can be pretty intimidating, they are not as intense as the Krampus runs since they are meant to ward off evil spirits rather than punish children who haven't behaved. The Perch may playfully charge toward you but don't typically grab or whip you as forcefully as you might find at Krampus runs.
Although Krampus is relatively unknown in the United States, and many people there frown upon the display of these demon-like figures, I have always been fascinated by its history. I couldn't wait to see a Krampus or Perchten in person. Unfortunately, my schedule didn't allow me to attend a parade during Krampusnacht this holiday season, but I was thrilled to discover the Perchten parade was being hosted in early January in Weiden, Germany.
Within thirty minutes of seeing the event and doing a little research, I had a place booked to stay, and it was decided I was going solo. As I was driving, in typical German fashion, I was driving through rain and winter mush. Then, I was a bit nervous when my accommodations reached out and said to drive carefully since they were getting snow in Weiden. Despite the weather, I arrived safely, dropped off my belongings for the night, and headed straight for the Old Town, where the parade was being held.
Even arriving an hour early, hundreds of people were lined up to get the best positions. Pro tip: Arrive early to get a prime viewing spot and mark your post with camping stools or portable seating! I managed to squeeze into the front row, so I had a great place to see the figures as they lined up for their performance, but I wasn't close to the central performance location. However, my location meant being up close and personal with the Perchten when they walked by.
The parade began in the rain with a group of men wearing large brass bells to signify the start of the performances. There were groups participating from all over Bavaria decked out in their most terrifying ensembles. Each group had one song to perform, and they delivered spectacular performances featuring flaming angel wings, dazzling fireworks displays, and even a demon playing the drums. As one of the Perch charged at me, I screamed and thought, "Is this really what you chose to do for fun by yourself?" Yes, yes, it was.
For those unfamiliar with Krampus, the word originated from the word "Krampen," which is German for claw. The figure himself, half-demon, half-goat, is said to have come from Austria's Alpine region, where you can find many parades during the holiday season. Where else can you find Krampus? Locations include Slovenia, Bavaria, Croatia, Hungary, and the Southern Tyrol region of Italy. Most parades coincide with Saint Nicholas Day, which falls on December 6th yearly. Krampusnacht, or Krampus Night, falls on December 5th.
Krampus is the opposite of Saint Nicholas. Where Saint Nicholas rewards children with treats and presents for their good behavior, Krampus comes for the children who have not behaved and punishes them. I know this is some dark stuff, far outside the classic Santa Claus and romantic fairy tale stories we grew up on in the States. But let's pause to reflect on some of the famous childhood books Germans grew up with: Grimm's Fairy Tales Book, which includes the original "Little Red Riding Hood" (spoiler alert, in the German version, she DOES get eaten). Other disturbing books include "Max und Moritz" and "Die gar traurige Geschicte mit dem Feuerzeung-the very sad story about Matches." And sad would be describing it nicely. If America has a fascination with serial killers, Germany has an equally significant fascination with extremely horrifying children's books.
When comparing the upbringing of German children to that of American children, it's clear that Krampus and Perchten are merely folklore figures for them and they are accustomed to seeing these “monsters”. In the late 1800s, postcards and postage stamps featured Krampus alongside children, and this fascination grew. For many Alpine region residents, this tradition still serves as a way to stay connected to their cultural roots.
Experiencing a performance like this offers a chance to immerse yourself in an unforgettable and, for some, possibly uncomfortable experience. When you get close to the performers, you can appreciate the intricate details and uniqueness of their masks. Many Perchten masks are homemade, while Krampus masks are traditionally made of Swiss pine wood and with an average price tag of €800.
Check local tourism websites for parade dates if you're in Europe during the holidays and haven't yet witnessed a Krampus or Perchten Run. Salzburg and Munich are known for their large Krampus parades-their official tourism sites are a great place to start. Weiden annually hosts a Perchten run, so you can follow their website to stay updated on the date. Come with an open mind and plenty of storage for your camera, and get ready to enjoy one of Europe's most unique traditions. And, maybe clean your house and leave out some treats on January 5th just in case.
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