Getting Scrubbed Down in Morocco: A Hammam Experience to Remember
It’s March 2025, and I once again find myself preparing for a spa experience in a new country, this time in Morocco, unsure of what to expect. My last spa visit in Korea ended with an unexpected naked scrub down from an ajumma in the communal showers, so I was eager to see what awaited me this time at the hammam baths in Fez with my three friends.
When it was our turn, we were ushered into a tiny changing room, handed disposable white thongs, and instructed to disrobe. The stern demeanor of the “welcome” lady had us giggling, but we hurriedly complied, putting on our white robes and matching thongs. Soon, we were led back to the rooom where it happens.
As we entered the room in a single-file line, we were directed by gestures to remove our robes and hang them on the provided hooks. There was just one hiccup; there were three marble slab tables and four of us. As I was mathing in my head, a lovely lady pointed firmly at me, then the bench off to the side of the room. Oh, ok, I have no issues waiting, oh, but I have to wait here naked!
I sat awkwardly on the slippery bench, fully understanding the panic my photo clients must feel during a session, wondering, “What do I do with my hands?” and “What do I do with my eyes?” It felt like that recurring nightmare of speaking in public while naked. After a dance of covering and uncovering my chest, I took a deep breath and finally let it all hang out while simultaneously finding a spot on the wall to stare at at.
Laughter ensued as my friends on the tables got their scrub downs, and a few yelps when the sensitive areas got extra scrubbing. When it was my turn to lay down on the table that looked like it was meant to chop up meat and not offer a relaxing spa experience, I was met with a massive bucket of warm water dumped on me, followed by the head-to-toe (and everywhere in between) scrubbing. I was worried it was going to be painful, but overall, it was relaxing. Or as relaxing as it can be when you’re naked and your three friends are laughing hysterically.
After the scrubbing, we were coated with something, and then the ladies left the room, leaving us to our hysterics while making water angels on the slabs. Laying still on the slippery meat slab for fifteen minutes was a tough ask; one false dance move and I'd be tumbling naked to the ground. We thought the crazy part was behind us, but no, there was more to go! One by one, we were ushered to a tiny stool where they proceeded to dump huge buckets of water on our heads without warning to wash our hair. This was no gentle hair washing; this is what could be considered a cruel and unusual interrogation method, causing even the toughest of agents to squirm.
When we were thoroughly washed and rinsed, we put our robes back on and were moved to the waiting area for our thirty-minute massages. The massages were light, grazing areas that are not part of the massages we are used to in the States, but hey, when in Morocco. While two of us waited for our other two friends, seven French girls were escorted into the room. They sat, and the group erupted in giggles and whispers. Though we didn’t understand anything they were saying, we understood completely.
Fez Hammams
We went to the Royal Medina Spa and paid 500 Dirhams (about $50) per person for the body treatment and a 30-minute massage afterward. It’s not one of the higher-rated spas, and there are others I would consider going to before this one. It wasn’t terrible, but I wouldn’t rate it as luxurious or pristine clean. You can make an appointment in advance or walk in (you just might wait a bit).
Other hammams in the old town that are recommended:
Hammam Mernissi & Spa
Riad Haj Palace & Spa
What to Bring
If you are more comfortable keeping your own under attire on, then bring a change of undergarments. You can also bring your own towel (robes were provided but not towels) and your own waterproof slides so you aren’t wearing ones provided that are not cleaned between each use.
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